Part IV: Sunday and Departure
Sunday is a day of relief. Coming off the constant rush of Friday and Saturday (and their late nights), it's the time to relax and move at a more leisurely pace. It's the time to soak Bonnaroo in and really remember what it's like to stand on the farm, to feel the bright sun and warm breeze, to see all the happy people and hear all the diverse music. You will be holding onto those memories for many long months.
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8:30am - Wake up. Oh, it's hot again. Everything is hot. I'm in a sensory deprivation tank that's been placed over a burner. What an alarm clock.
8:31 - Breakfast and lounging. Others were up, and I met them in the shade of the canopies. As I ate dry cereal we discussed last night. Jamie said he was at all of Kanye West's show, and that it was pretty good. Others who were at Phil Lesh & Friends repeated the same story Ryan had told me, and we all relished the schadenfreude.
10:00 - "Shower." As much as I or anyone else might wish it to be, Bonnaroo is not paradise: the funk in my pits and the grease in my hair was reminding me of that. Baby wipes are a staple, but they only do so much. Bonnaroo does have pay showers, but I've never felt it was worth going that route. I opt to do what many of the crunchier attendees do, and take a military shower at the water stations. All I need is a couple washcloths, soap, a little inhibition and a lot of ingenuity. Sunday is a good day to do it, as a way to be relatively fresh for the long trip home the next day.
With a new springtime scent and a bounce in my step, I walk back to my camp. By the time I'm there, the dust from the dirt roads have caked on my legs and feet, and one can hardly tell I've bathed at all.
11:30 - Head to Centeroo. After an attempt to sleep in a camping chair in the shade, I decide it's time to get to Centeroo. As it happens, I'm not on my way to more fun and music; Sunday was actually a light day for me in terms of artists of interest, and my first show of the day didn't begin until 2:45. I was actually on my way to a sponsored attraction called the Fuse Barn, "powered" by Fuse TV. They were the one location in all of Bonnaroo that advertised a free cell phone charging service.
Let me go on a tangent and say that my phone and I do not get along. I think of me and my phone as having a comically dysfunctional, Odd Couple-ish relationship. See, my phone is lazy. Incredibly lazy. It needs to be charged at least once a day, and more frequently if I have the audacity to actually use it. Two or three calls and it's all tuckered out, informing me it's going to turn itself off. Occasionally when I try to turn it back on, it thinks the better and turns itself back off. It's battery bar is perpetually at one block, warning me that at any time it may need to sit down and take a break. My phone drives me bonkers, but what can I do? We're a pair!
Anyway, I'd been conserving my battery life by keeping the phone turned off almost the entire time I was on the farm. But it was Sunday, and I knew Matt and I would need to get in touch to finalize plans of how to meet up and when to leave. I also was painfully wishing to talk to my wife. So, armed with my phone charger I went to give the lazy guy a cup of black coffee.
11:50 - Fuse Barn. The phone charging booth opened at noon, and I arrived early to find about thirty-five people more motivated and frantic than me. I got in line and waited. At noon they had not opened, the line had doubled, and it had become blazingly hot (we had no shade). At five after, while still not open, one of the employees came out and told the line that they only had thirty slots and so only the first thirty would get the phones charged and that others could come back in an hour. They also listed off a few major manufacturer's brand names that they did not have equipment for, sorry everyone. I counted the people in line, and I was thirty-third. I stayed, thinking that perhaps I had miscounted or someone would leave or not be able to charge their phone. At ten after another employee went through the line and handed out combination battery-powered fan and water spritzers with Fuse's logo. At twenty after, the booth opened, and the line... didn't move. I was unsure of the details, but I gathered that the process taking a phone from someone and plugging it in was much more technical and complicated, and therefore the line could move not faster than one step forward every couple minutes. When I looked at my watch and realized I had been baking in the sun for almost an hour, I wished everyone around me good luck and left, making sure to kick off the dust from my heels.
I did have an alternate plan. There is a small, child-oriented tent called Kidz Jam. Walking by it the day before I noticed an electrical outlet patch peeking out the back of their tent. It was still there, and so I sat down, plugged in, covered the phone with my backpack, and attempted to look like I was just relaxing in the shade, reading the day's issue of the Bonnaroo Beacon.
2:00pm - Talk to Jocelyn. After an hour of charging I took the phone and my gear and moved to a more secluded spot under one of the farm's grand oak trees. There I called my wife, Jocelyn. I must say, her voice on the other end was the most beautiful music I heard all weekend. I missed her fiercely. We spoke for twenty minutes, me giving her highlights of my time, and her giving me the scoop on the wedding she photographed the day before. I told her about The Bluegrass Allstars, Chris Rock, SuperJam, Mastodon, Sigur Rós, karaoke, losing the lens cap, and so on, but with so much left to say (as you now know), I didn't fear having nothing left to tell her when we would be reunited. I also had the opportunity to hear my little baby daughter coo and yelp and laugh, melting my heart all the more.
After saying goodbye, I gave Matt a call and left him a nervous voicemail about plans for departure. It was then time for my first show, which helped to put the precarious situation out of my mind.
2:45 - Orchestra Baobab. This group from Dakar, Senegal has been fusing African traditions with Cuban and Caribbean music for four decades. They experienced a slight resurgence in popularity in 2002 when Dave Matthews and Trey Anastasio filmed a documentary about meeting, learning from and performing with the group.
I arrived a few minutes before the show, and found only a scant attendance with easy opportunities to get very close to the fence. To my chagrin, most of those in attendance appeared to be merely holding good spots for one or both of the indie rock shows later in the day: O.A.R. and Death Cab for Cutie. In fact, several of these self-absorbed hipster wankers were lining the front fence, sitting down with their backs to the stage, taking turns napping and staring at the dirt, while one of the most significant African musical groups performed behind them. On the other hand, I was able to get in front of a guy after telling him I was there for Orchestra Baobab and would be leaving right afterward. All the same, there were enough of these indie kids around that I feared the band, while up there giving their all, would feel unappreciated. As it turned out, only my side of the crowd was really a problem (a fenced-off path leads from the stage to the soundboard, bisecting the grounds). I watched as the folks across from me danced jubilantly in a tight pack, offering cheers to the band, who in turn grinned and waved back. The grass did look greener on the other side of the fence. One of the band's tenor saxophone players was a particularly entertaining ham, shuffling on stage and teasing the vocalists while they sang. Behind his sunglasses he would identify specific people in the audience, offering them huge smiles and thumbs up. Towards the end of the show, they invited a young, shirtless guy in the crowd up on stage. The guy, for whatever reason, had with him an alto sax, and he joined the horn section in their antiphonal licks. I found this to be a beautiful statement from the band: we view music as a communal thing, and will dance and cheer for you like you do for us. I would bet that O.A.R. doesn't hold the same sentiment. Too bad, because Orchestra Baobab was the most fun show of the weekend.
After the band finished and the dust had settled and we all caught our breath, I made my way to That Tent for my next show. I had just spent almost two hours standing in an unprecedentedly scorching Bonnaroo 2008 sun, and the tent's muddy shade was looking very attractive.
4:20 - Not what you think, just Solomon Burke. The show that just ended was by vanguard Bonnaroo artist Robert Randolph, and the show later on would feature two beloved blues-rock guitarists, Derek Trucks & Susan Tedeschi. Between these packed shows the tent was nearly deserted; I found myself once again with the opportunity to be very close to the stage. Yet it surprised and saddened me that performances by these younger (albeit respectable) players would draw three or four times the crowd as a mythic soul singer with a half-century career and a place in the Rock n Roll Hall of Fame. In fact I quickly learned that many of the folks around me didn't even know who Mr. Burke was, and were just waiting for "Trucks". I would assure them that they were indeed in for a treat.
Setting up the stage meant lots of instruments, mics and a horn section. It also meant a very large and colorful custom-built throne front and center (Mr. Burke is a man of great, er, status). All this, in turn, meant that the band wasn't ready to take the stage until 5:25, forty minutes late. The band played Burke on, who was lifted onto the stage in his wheelchair, then moved to his throne. He is a very large person.
As I watched the show, the hindsight finally came to me that I didn't actually have high expectations for this show. Solomon Burke is getting on in years and clearly not in the best of health, so he was not likely to be much of a fiery, passionate performer. Also, the R&B and Soul singers from the golden age that are still with us are often notoriously flat and disappointing live nowadays. Chuck Berry is known for not showing up at all for his gigs. Even The Hardest Working Man in Showbusiness' set at Bonnaroo 2003 is often cited as one of the worst shows in the festival's history. Perhaps this trend partially explains the low attendance at Burke's show? In any case, it fully defied these probabilities, and shame on anyone who would call it a nostalgia act. Burke was seated at the center, and created a hurricane of excitement around him. He thoroughly engaged the audience and seemed so genuinely pleased to be playing for us.
Burke announced that this was a request show, but it wasn't readily apparent that we were not the ones requesting songs. I eventually noticed a small video monitor at his feet, and presumably requests were coming in from the Internet (was the show being broadcast somewhere?). The selections were stellar, including "Diamond in Your Mind" by-- you guessed it-- Tom Waits. Burke also invited "all the ladies" to come up on stage and dance, and soon dozens of wide-eyed and grinning young women-- and a couple dudes-- had peppered themselves throughout the musicians.
As great a time as I was having, I had my own schedule to keep even if none of the artists seemed to be cooperating. As I left the tent and headed towards The Other Tent, I looked back to see just how small the audience really was: the people only filled the area right in front of the stage, and barely anyone occupied the back half of the tent. It is still heartbreaking to think of how very many people missed out on this joyous time.
6:15 - Broken Social Scene. Broken Social Scene falls just above The Hold Steady and just below Wilco on the list of bands that I really should like but just don't. And in yet another sincere attempt to develop that affection, I made the time to see them perform. I left the tent not fifteen minutes later, still unmoved. I may have stuck around a bit longer if the lovely and talented Feist were with them, but no such luck; instead I spotted a middle-aged topless woman noodle dancing. I high-tailed it over to the main stage for my one last big must-see of the weekend.
6:40 - Robert Plant & Alison Krauss with T-Bone Burnett. I again took advantage of the lopsided crowd and took the long route around to the far side of the field, then entered into the pit directly in front of the stage. It was understandably packed, but all present were thoroughly entranced and had no use for any activities that would annoy their neighbors (yelling, flailing about, asking for a fix, etc.). It came as no surprise whatsoever that such a duet of stunningly talented singers would put on as fantastic a show as they did. Further, I would say that the show (as with their album) was made all the more profound because of such an unlikely pairing rather than in spite of it. The song selection covered many gems from their album including "Gone, Gone, Gone", "Fortune Teller" and "Trampled Rose" (hey, another Tom Waits composition!). However, the crowd favorite by a mile was an energetic performance of the classic Led Zeppelin, Lord of the Rings-inspired song "Battle of Evermore". Even the security guard who yelled at me to put my fancy camera away (yes, I finally got caught) could not dampen my spirits.
7:50 - Jake Shimabukuro. It was bittersweet walking to the small tent in the back of the main stage field, knowing that inside I would find my last Bonnaroo show. Perhaps I was a bit overly sentimental about it, but Jake Shimabukuro felt like just the right punctuation to a sentence that could've kept going. A young Hawaiian whose ukulele chops have all but earned him the middle name "Virtuoso" among music critics, Shimabukuro is as humble and appreciative a performer as he is skilled at his instrument. He sat solo on the Troo Music Lounge Tent's small stage by himself for a hour-long set, and the only change was when the spirit of the music would lift him from his stool. Shimabukuro engaged the audience. He asked us questions, repeatedly thanked everyone he could think of (sound crew, bartenders, other artists at the festival), and took the time to explain a bit about each piece performed. He also took the award for most diverse repertoire, reprieving his own pleasant originals with covers of The Beatles, Chick Corea, Led Zeppelin and Franz Schubert.
Shimabukuro won over the dedicated audience by deftly removing himself from the spotlight. He didn't showcase how great he was; instead, he simply asked those present, "Isn't it wonderful, the sounds that can be created?" To which we grinned and replied, "Yes!"
8:45 - A few more kernels of amusement. Leaving Centeroo for what would be the last time, I passed by a young man and woman standing by the long wooden fence that separates the concert grounds from the camping grounds. The woman had chosen to festoon herself not with clothes but with paint, and the man was out working the crowd, asking strangers to sign a 3'x4' canvas they had with them, as a keepsake. I was happy to acquiesce; it felt as if they were claiming that their Bonnaroo experience would not have been complete without me. Picking out a color from their packet of markers, I looked over the canvas and decided to be different, as people in our generation are wont to do, and sign the side border. See you next year! - Steve
A few minutes further down the road, I was admiring the graffiti that the festival encourages its patrons to apply to the same wooden fence. One particular statement caught my eye. I suppose not everything at Bonnaroo 2008 was worth its wait.
9:10 - Spending time at camp. Nearly everyone at camp wanted to skip the evening's headliner, Widespread Panic. There is a backstory to such a sentiment, and the gist is that WSP is a respectable southern-rock jamband that has simply headlined Bonnaroo too many times. The point is, we all were determined to thoroughly enjoy one another's company in the relaxed atmosphere of Camp Inforoo, content to let the jams drift unobtrusively into the environs. I lit up my second cigar, we lounged and chatted, put one another into hysterics, and watched as occasional smuggled fireworks were set off, from around the grounds, into the balmy night sky.
Early on, we had some visitors: the young man and woman with the canvas. It turned out the man posted infrequently on Inforoo, and wanted to stop by and meet us. I was impressed by how many more signatures were on the canvas (including the border) in just an hour or so, and all present signed as well.
Someone had brought a watermelon that had gone untouched all weekend, so Jamie, The Dude and I smashed it.
Monday, 2:00am - Bedtime. By the time the collective decision to turn in came, it had gotten surprisingly chilly. I had not packed any blanket, to maintain a light load, but now I was very thankful that others at camp weren't so lean. I was lent a thick comforter, and slept like a baby.
8:30 - Awaken. While still on the cool side, the sunny Tennessee day was warming up rapidly. Outside the tent I was surprised to see that everyone else in camp was already up and packing. I hopped to it, knowing that I needed to catch Matt and Joe at the location of the car. I freshened up, ate a little, rolled up my tent and organized my belongings. The bittersweet goodbyes. The memories.
A fellow camper graciously offered me a ride over to the car (at this point I was realizing just how much I had relied on other people for things during this weekend. I'm very grateful for all the charity). She dropped me off just a block away, and with my gear on and in tow, I met up with Matt and Joe just as they were done loading their gear in the vehicle. We squeezed mine in, then squeezes ourselves in.
10:00 - Leave Bonnaroo. Thoughts of being reunited with my family by day's end was all that could soften the pain of leaving this magical place and returning to the real world. From the back of the car I watched as we rolled down the rural dirt road, the tall grass and modest hills overtaking the view of the arch and the ferris wheel and the pod balloons.
It was slow getting back on the highway, although compared to the congestion getting in on Thursday, we were fast as lightning. I asked Matt and Joe how they enjoyed their first Bonnaroo, to which Joe replied, "Well, my backpack was stolen and I got detained by security." I knew this had to be good, and it was. Let me relay the story to you.
It all went down on Friday afternoon, not long after Matt and Joe had finished setting up their camp. While others went off to explore, Joe went to nap in his open tent. He woke up about an hour later to find that his backpack, which was placed just outside the tent, was now gone. He searched around the camp, but quickly determined that it must have been swiped. Soon Matt returned, and they used his cell phone to call Joe's (which, along with other valuables, was inside the backpack). The thief picked up. Joe pleaded with him. He told him he didn't need the whole bag back--which Joe reiterated in truth to me--, but just the cell phone, seeing as it was his address book and calendar and all. The thief, probably sensing a trap, refused. That was the last that Joe heard from him or the backpack.
While walking the roads between camps, looking in vain for his stolen belongings, Joe was kicked in the head by a horse. I'm unsure of the details of how this happened, but I do know that Joe fell to the ground and blacked out for a couple seconds. When he got himself up, the long wait in line, the brutal heat, being stolen from and now getting assaulted by a horse made him snap. He walked over to the horse and shoved it with all his might. The horse was startled, but of course it didn't topple; it was unharmed. However it's master, a female mounted security guard, saw what had happened and rushed over. She was irate with Joe, but Joe would have none of it, yelling back at her. Eventually other mounted guards came, and Joe was taken into custody.
He was escorted to a chain-link detainment cage, apparently not far from the parking-only grounds. There he was kept until he could cool off. He relayed his experiences to the guards, and after a couple hours was let go, with some very harsh warnings from the security captain.
I told Joe that I was very sorry to hear he had such a terrible time this weekend.
"Are you kidding? I had the best weekend of my life!", he replied.
I didn't know how he could say that; I remembered how bummed I was when my backpack was stolen at Bonnaroo the previous year, but I at least was able to get it and all its contents back. He said that it did suck to have lost those things, but between all the music he saw, all the people he met, and all the fun and wild times he had he couldn't really care about that. The rest of the weekend was just too amazing. "Plus", he added, "I now have some great stories to tell." I had to agree with him there.
10:45 - Errands. Matt promised his wife he would bring home some big-ass fireworks, which are legal in Tennessee. Off one exit, he found a store he liked, which also had gas. I offered to cover this tank, and Joe told me to get premium. I went inside, handed my card to the young man behind the cigarettes and Lotto tickets, pointed out the window to our car, and said, "Fill it up. 93, please." Then, I gave Jo and quick call on my half-dead phone. When I came back to the counter, the clerk handed me my card and a receipt... for $93. I questioned him, and got the answer you're probably expecting: "Well, you asked for $93 worth of gas."
"No," I shook my head urgently, "I was asking for 93-grade gas!"
"Oh. I was wondering why you needed so much gas!"
At that point I punched him in the face, then the police came to take me away. When I snapped out of my Scrubs-like fantasy, I asked, "So, can you revoke the charge on my card?" Turned out he couldn't, as the transaction had already taken place. He also didn't know how to use the machine to credit me back the difference, nor, as we were to learn, did his manager. Finally an offer was made, to charge my card again for the gas bought, then give me $93 in cash.
"What took you so long?," Joe asked when I finally got back to the car. I repeated the story, showing them the wad of bills. Joe chuckled. "Tennesseeans," he remarked, then drove us across the street for lunch.
I had never been to a Krystal before, but apparently it's the South's answer to White Castle, which I also had never been to. I had the sampler: a mini-buger, a mini-chicken sandwich and a mini-chili-cheesedog. Disgusting, yes, but filling and comforting. No one can really expect anything more from fast food.
5:30pm - Dinner. By the time we were heading back through Roanoke, we were all ready to eat. Since every Bonnaroo trip must include at least one stop at a Waffle House, it went unsaid where we needed to go. Matt knew where the closest location was, and apparently even knew our waitress. The waffles, of course, were delicious.
Once back on the road we were making good time, listening to hip-hop, reading, napping and quoting Spinal Tap.
10:15 - Home. Late on a dark and quite Monday night I finally was home. Matt and Joe dropped me off at my apartment, and they also helped me bring my stuff inside, then we said goodbye. I kissed my beautiful wife and baby. Then I took a shower.
After almost a week of being away--after four solid days and nights of spectacular music, art, comedy, dancing, food, friends, spectacle and experiences--, I found myself lying in my own bed with my wife beside me. I needed to get some rest before returning to work in the morning... but my mind was already thinking about what might be coming in another 362 days.
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